Izakayas in Japan: cultural diving, sharing & drinking

When the sun sinks behind the rooftops in Japan and the neon lights begin to flicker, they come to life: Izakayas. Izakayas are much more than places to drink and eat. They are vibrant microcosms of everyday life in Japan, social melting pots and cultural experiences. They are also culinary hotspots, as you can often eat better in a Japanese izakaya than in many a Michelin-starred restaurant at home. Izakaya visits should be a must for anyone visiting Japan. 

What exactly is an izakaya?

The term "izakaya" is made up of iru (to linger), sake (alcohol) and ya (store, house). Originally, izakayas were places where guests bought a bottle of alcohol and consumed it on the spot. Today, they are popular meeting places for colleagues, friends and families. The term izakaya is often translated as "pub" abroad. However, this does not do it justice. Because there is always a chef in an izakaya. The food is varied, seasonal and extremely fresh. The menu is a culinary treasure chest. The dishes come in small portions, making them ideal for sharing. Classics such as tempura, karaage (deep-fried chicken), gyoza, yakitori, grilled fish, the freshest selection of sashimi, takoyaki or nasu dengaku (grilled eggplant with miso) can be found on almost every menu. But there is much more to discover than the familiar. The most important thing in an izakaya is to dare to try something new. The menus are often handwritten in Japanese, but with Google Lens, it's no longer a problem to understand what's behind the dishes. And one thing should be clear to everyone: You can only eat well or very well in Japan, which means: in principle, you can do very little wrong!

Lively atmosphere

From dark alleyways in Tokyo to cozy back rooms in Kyoto - izakayas can be found everywhere and in all shapes and sizes. Tiny counters with just a few seats, quaint little houses with tatami mats or modern establishments in high-rise complexes, they all have one thing in common: a mixture of warmth, conviviality and culinary richness. And they are not designed for quiet whispers. There is laughter, shouting and cheers. The staff shout "Irasshaimase!" ("Welcome!") at the top of their voices as you enter. ("Welcome!") as they enter, while pans clatter from the kitchen and conversations fill the air. People toast each other at the tables, with "kanpai", of course. It is the informal liveliness that makes izakayas so charming, a contrast to the often formal politeness of Japan. The seating arrangements are often close. People sit shoulder to shoulder, which quickly leads to conversations with strangers. Not only is the food varied, but so are the drinks. Shochu, sake, beer, highballs e.g. whisky soda, chu-hi's such as lemon sour or tea-hi's, i.e. shochu mixed with tea, for example with hojicha or mugicha, are drunk.

Regional diversity with tradition

The range of izakayas on offer varies considerably depending on the region. In Hokkaido, for example, there is a very special type of crab. In Hiroshima, oysters. In Kagoshima, "black pork", i.e. the "black" Berkshire pig, is very popular, while in Sendai everything revolves around edamame, for example edamame mochi. A visit to a local izakaya is therefore always a culinary journey of discovery through Japan's prefectures. Many izakayas are family-run. The owner stands behind the counter, serves himself, chats with regular customers and knows their favorite dishes.

An evening to remember

A visit to an izakaya is more than just dinner. It is an immersion in the Japanese soul, in its contrasts of tradition and modernity, silence and noise, restraint and warmth. Those who explore with open eyes and an open palate will be rewarded: with taste sensations, conversations, stories and the desire to return soon. Because in the izakayas of Japan, the soul of the country whispers: warm, lively and full of flavor.

Connoisseur's tip: Mimasuya - Tokyo's oldest izakaya

If you are in Tokyo, we recommend Tokyo's oldest izakaya, the Mimasuya. It is located in the heart of the city, hidden between modern office buildings and busy streets in the Kanda district. Since it was founded in 1905, this traditional eatery has become an institution - not only for its regulars, but also for anyone who wants to experience an authentic slice of Japanese izakaya culture. Mimasuya was founded in the late Meiji period, an era in which Japan was rapidly modernizing while at the same time holding on to many traditions. The original building did not survive the devastating Kantō earthquake of 1923, but the business was rebuilt on the same site in the 1920s and even survived the air raids of the Second World War.

Today, Mimasuya is run by the fourth generation of the same family - a rare occurrence in Tokyo's fast-paced restaurant scene. This perseverance is also reflected in the interior of the restaurant: dark wooden beams, simple paper lamps, a long bar with a patina - everything breathes history. Mimasuya is not a glamorous hotspot for tourists. Many guests are long-time regulars. What makes Mimasuya special is its authenticity. It has never been modernized, never adapted for tourism. The food and atmosphere are simply great. If you are in Tokyo, you should visit this great place.