What is Akazake?
Akazake is an ancient sake variety with a characteristic reddish-brown color and a history dating back over 1,200 years. It has been handed down in the Kumamoto region since ancient times. For centuries, Akazake was the only alcoholic drink permitted in Kumamoto. In the Edo period, akazake was even declared the "state drink" of the Higo-Hosokawa reign (today's Kumamoto). The production of any other sake varieties and the import of other varieties from other dominions was strictly prohibited.
Akazake means "red sake" and is a fermented food that is used for cooking in almost all dishes in Kumamoto. Although the production process is similar to that of "normal" sake made from rice, akazake is unique because wood ash is added during the production process. The addition of wood ash alkalizes and preserves the drink. Akazake is also called "Akumochizake", which means "sake with ash". The amino acids formed during the fermentation process produce a deep, rich and refreshing sweetness and intense umami. Akazake adds flavor and brightness to dishes, tenderizes ingredients and reduces fishy odors. Akazake is still used today on special occasions, as a libation and as a festive drink at New Year celebrations.
Production process
Akazake is made from rice and brewed in the same way as sake. The most important feature of "Akazake" is the addition of wood ash before pressing the mash to neutralize the acidity and improve the shelf life. Adding wood ash to the mash is a very old Japanese method. This Japanese brewing method can be traced back to the Heian period (794-1192). Before pasteurization, i.e. the brief heating of sake to improve its shelf life, was established, sake was usually produced in a form that we would today call "raw". However, in the environments of the time, unwanted bacterial growth ("Hiochi") could easily occur. The ancestral wisdom from the Heian period of adding alkaline wood ash to sake was adopted by Japanese sake brewers for a very long time. By neutralizing the acidity in the sake with ash, the originally sour sake becomes neutral or slightly alkaline. The wood ash added to the mash is completely removed in the next process step so that it does not remain in the sake. In an alkaline environment, the browning reaction and the Maillard reaction of the sugars in the ingredients take place quickly, turning the color of the sake from amber to reddish brown within a short time. This is also the reason for the name "Akazake".
Today's use of Akazake
Akazake was originally consumed as a drink by the common people of Kumamoto Prefecture, and occasionally used as a condiment. After the Second World War, however, its seasoning effect attracted nationwide attention: outside the prefecture, akazake was first used for cooking when a kaiseki-style chef working in a restaurant in Kumamoto happened to try it on the recommendation of the restaurant owner. The chef fell in love with the product and introduced it to a cooking association in Tokyo. As a result, demand for akazake increased rapidly throughout Tokyo and then spread throughout the country. The demand for akazake as a cooking sake increased from year to year in the country's kitchens. Today, akazake is popular with many chefs as a seasoning, offering properties that cooking sake or even mirin do not have.
Difference to mirin
Although akazake has some properties in common with mirin, the two differ in that mirin is made from glutinous rice, koji and shochu and does not undergo its own complete fermentation. As a result, it contains fewer enzymes and organic acids than akazake. Just as in the production of sake, a two-stage fermentation and sugar conversion process takes place in the production of akazake. Sugar, alcohol and amino acids mix to create an intense umami flavor. Akazake is also slightly alkaline, which is unusual for alcoholic drinks. When cooked, it does not solidify the proteins in meat and fish, resulting in a complex taste. The difference between mirin and akazake can be seen above all in its shine and brilliance. Akazake contains a balanced ratio of sugar, dextrin, protein, amino acids and other ingredients. When used in teriyaki, kabayaki and other dishes, it gives the food a beautiful shine that lasts after cooling. Even when cooking bitter vegetables, the color does not change and remains beautiful.
