Travelogue from Okinawa's main island: A completely different Japan

There are places that feel far away not just geographically, but emotionally as well. Okinawa is one such place. Our first impression after landing on the main island of Okinawa Honto was: This isn’t just “another part of Japan.” It’s something unique. Something that feels familiar and yet foreign at the same time. It is Japan, yes, but with a completely different rhythm, a different history, a different soul.

In Okinawa, everything seems a bit more laid-back. Here, people tend to arrive a little late rather than early for appointments. Plans are more or less flexible. Things happen when they happen. Many restaurants have tables and chairs outside, which is something you don’t often see in Japan’s big cities. In Okinawa, everyone spends more time sitting outside, enjoying the warm climate. But this laid-back attitude isn’t a coincidence. It’s deeply rooted in the islands’ culture. Life in Okinawa moves at a slower pace, and at the same time, people live more mindfully.

Shisa, traditional guardian deities of Okinawan culture, can be found all over the island. They resemble lion-dog hybrids and are often placed in pairs on rooftops or gates to ward off evil spirits. They represent a blend of Okinawan, Chinese, and West Asian influences and serve as popular symbols of protection and good luck, as well as souvenirs.

Cuisine that surprises

Anyone traveling to Okinawa and expecting “typically Japanese” cuisine is in for a surprise. Of course, you’ll find ramen, tempura, and sushi here as well. But Okinawan cuisine as a whole is distinct, a reflection of its history and influences. This is particularly evident in a dish you’d hardly associate with Japan: taco rice. A mixture of seasoned ground meat, lettuce, cheese, and rice. It tastes surprisingly good, and above all, it’s quintessentially Okinawan. Its origins lie in American influence on the island. Since the end of World War II, the U.S. has maintained a strong presence here, which has also left its mark on the local cuisine.

But Okinawa has a whole other side to it. Take, for example, sea cucumber (namako), a delicacy that may not look like much but has a surprisingly mild and intriguing flavor. Or tofu with peanuts, a combination that’s creamy, slightly sweet, and has a nutty depth that lingers on the palate. Goya, Okinawa’s bitter melon, is also delicious; it’s extremely bitter and has an intriguing texture.

Sea grapes, known as umibudo, are highly recommended. This is a local type of seaweed that looks like small green pearls. It bursts easily in the mouth and has a fresh, slightly salty, ocean-like flavor; it is often eaten raw with a dip. Okinawa is also famous for its pork dishes and Okinawa soba. This variation consists of thick wheat noodles in a clear, often meat-based broth, usually with pork belly or spare ribs. Hearty, yet surprisingly light. What all these dishes have in common: Okinawa’s cuisine is a reflection of its history. Influences from China, Southeast Asia, Japan, and the U.S. converge here, giving rise to something entirely unique. Less rigid, less traditional in the classical sense, yet incredibly diverse and vibrant.

In Japan, drinking plays just as important a role as eating, and this is true in Okinawa as well. Okinawa takes great pride in its awamori, the region’s iconic spirit, which is produced exclusively there. Awamori has a 600-year history and is made from (Thai) rice and black koji. All over Okinawa, you can find this delicious drink in large 1.8-liter bottles, known as Isshobin’s. Chuhais are available with awamori as well as colorful liqueurs.

The Forgotten History of the Ryukyu Islands

To truly understand Okinawa, one must look back into the past. Long before the islands became part of Japan, there was a separate kingdom here: the Ryukyu Kingdom. For several centuries, it was an independent state with close trade ties to China, Southeast Asia, and Japan. This international orientation had a profound influence on the culture. Many traditions found in Okinawa today have their roots in this era. But in the 19th century, everything changed. Japan began to expand its control over the islands. In 1879, the Ryukyu Kingdom was officially dissolved and integrated into Japanese territory. For many Okinawans, this moment marks the beginning of a difficult chapter. For the integration was not always voluntary, nor was it always fair. Language and culture were partially suppressed; the population was expected to conform. Much of what once defined Okinawa was pushed to the margins.

Perhaps the deepest wound in Okinawa’s history was inflicted during World War II. The Battle of Okinawa was one of the most brutal conflicts in the Pacific. Large parts of the island were destroyed, and countless people lost their lives. The consequences are still felt today. After the war, Okinawa came under U.S. administration, a situation that lasted until 1972. It was only then that the island was officially returned to Japan. Yet even today, U.S. military bases remain a central part of daily life. For many people here, this is a sensitive issue. The bases bring economic benefits, but also burdens. Many locals also find the relationship with Tokyo complicated and feel that the Japanese mainland does not fully understand them, or even neglects them. Political decisions are often made in Tokyo without sufficiently taking the islands’ perspectives into account. Added to this is the feeling of having been historically disadvantaged. This tension is palpable everywhere. It manifests itself in political discussions, but also in everyday life. In small things. In the way people talk about their identity. Many see themselves not only as Japanese, but as Okinawans with their own history and their own culture.

And yet Okinawa is not a place of bitterness. On the contrary: it is a place of joie de vivre. Despite its complex history and despite the challenges, the island exudes an astonishing lightheartedness. Perhaps that is precisely where its strength lies. People laugh a lot and take their time. They seem more open, more direct, and sometimes a bit more rebellious than on the mainland. This blend of serenity and independence is what makes Okinawa so special.

In addition to culture and history, nature also plays a central role. The sea is ever-present—turquoise, clear, and in some places almost surreal. The beaches are more reminiscent of Southeast Asia than the image one typically associates with Japan. But it’s not just the beaches; it’s also the small details: the rustling of the palm trees, the warm evenings, and the feeling that time moves a little differently here.

A Bittersweet Farewell

Anyone who leaves Okinawa has come to know a place that is hard to categorize: too Japanese to be completely different. Too distinct to be merely a part of Japan. Okinawa is an in-between space. A crossroads of cultures, eras, and influences. And that is precisely what makes it so fascinating. Perhaps it is this very blend of depth and lightheartedness that is so impressive. And perhaps that is exactly what makes Okinawa so special.