Time to take a dip! A journey to Japan's most beautiful onsen

Steam rises from the water, a small stream murmurs somewhere in the distance, and wooded mountains stretch out behind the pool. Few experiences connect Japan, nature, and a slower pace of life as directly as a visit to an onsen. And anyone who has ever sat in a rotenburo—a Japanese outdoor bath—quickly understands why bathing in hot springs in Japan is so much more than just wellness.

The conditions for this are ideal. Japan lies on the Pacific Ring of Fire, and its volcanic landscape is crisscrossed by thousands of natural hot springs. The Japan National Tourism Organization reports that there are more than 27,000 natural hot springs in the country. Over the centuries, entire towns have sprung up around many of them, and daily life there is still shaped by the hot water to this day. Yet no two onsen are alike. Sometimes you bathe in milky-white sulfur water in the middle of the mountains; other times, in an elegant wooden tub at a ryokan. There are onsen with ocean views, springs in the heart of major cities, and even a place where you don’t get into the water at all, but instead have yourself buried up to your neck in hot volcanic sand. A trip through Japan can therefore be wonderfully planned as a journey from onsen to onsen.

Bathing with a History

It is difficult to pinpoint exactly how long the Japanese have been using hot springs. Some of the country’s most famous onsen trace their history and legends back to ancient times. Dogo Onsen in Ehime Prefecture on Shikoku, for example, is considered one of Japan’s oldest hot springs. According to an ancient legend, an injured white heron is said to have discovered the spring, repeatedly dipped its leg into the water, and eventually flown away healed. People are said to have begun using the water as well after that.

Over the centuries, hot springs evolved into places of purification, relaxation, and socializing. Traveling to hot springs became particularly popular during the Edo period, from 1603 to 1868. Accommodations, bathhouses, and eventually the classic onsen resorts we associate with Japan today sprang up around the springs. This also explains why a stay at an onsen often involves much more than just the actual bath. You check into a ryokan, put on the yukata provided, perhaps take a dip before dinner, are then served a multi-course Japanese meal, and take another bath later on. The next morning? Back to the onsen, of course.

And then there are places where practically an entire town becomes a bathhouse. One of the most impressive examples is located in Gunma Prefecture, northwest of Tokyo. The heart of Kusatsu Onsen is not a temple or a marketplace, but the Yubatake, literally the “hot water field.” Here, mineral-rich thermal water bubbles up from the ground right in the middle of town and is channeled through long wooden troughs. The atmosphere is particularly spectacular in the evening, when steam rises above the illuminated Yubatake. Some of the water emerges from the spring at temperatures exceeding 50 degrees, making it far too hot for bathing. Since the Edo period, therefore, a special technique has been used in Kusatsu: in a process called yumomi, the water is rhythmically stirred with large wooden boards, cooling it without adding cold water. Today, you can experience this tradition as a demonstration at Netsunoyu, right next to the Yubatake. Afterward, it’s time to take the plunge yourself. Public baths and ryokan are scattered around the town center, and in Sainokawara Park, a large open-air bath awaits amid the forest and volcanic landscape. In winter, when Kusatsu is blanketed in snow and thick steam rises above the water, the whole scene truly becomes a Japanese onsen dream.

Tokyo: Hot Springs Instead of the Hustle and Bustle of the Big City

At first glance, onsen and Tokyo don’t necessarily seem to go together. But even in Japan’s largest metropolis, you can enjoy a wonderful soak between sightseeing, shopping, and visits to izakayas. Hisamatsu Yu in Nerima, for example, is particularly lovely. This modern bathhouse combines natural hot springs with surprisingly minimalist architecture and light installations. Saya no Yudokoro in Itabashi, on the other hand, features greenish-brown thermal water and a traditional Japanese garden. For those who want to stay as central as possible, Thermae Yu in Shinjuku offers a large, modern bathhouse right in the heart of bustling Kabukicho. The natural thermal water used there, however, is transported to Tokyo from Nakaizu in Shizuoka Prefecture. Mannenyu in Shin-Okubo is worth checking out for travelers with tattoos. This traditional public bath is just a few minutes’ walk from the train station and is explicitly described as “tattoo-friendly” by the official Tokyo tourism portal.

Incidentally, Tokyo is a great place to see the difference between an onsen and a sento. An onsen uses natural thermal water, while a traditional sento is a public bathhouse with heated tap water. The ritual and atmosphere can still be very similar, though.

Osaka and the Leap into the Deep End

Osaka also offers plenty of opportunities to put your feet up after a long day—or, rather, to soak your whole body in hot water. The city’s official tourism website lists a whole range of hot springs in and around Osaka, including Solaniwa Onsen Osaka Bay Tower, Kamigata Onsen Ikkyu, Nose Onsen, and Minoh Onsen. This makes Osaka a great place—especially for first-time visitors to Japan—to experience the country’s bathing culture for the first time. You don’t have to travel all the way to a remote ryokan in the mountains; instead, you can easily incorporate a day at an onsen into a city trip. And if you’ve really acquired a taste for it, one of the country’s most beautiful onsen destinations is within easy reach from Osaka.

Kinosaki: From Bath to Bath in a Yukata

Kinosaki Onsen in Hyogo Prefecture is practically the epitome of a Japanese hot spring resort. People have been bathing here for about 1,300 years. A canal lined with willow trees flows through the center of town, traditional ryokan line the streets, and in the evenings, guests stroll from one bathhouse to the next in yukata and geta, the traditional wooden sandals. That’s exactly what makes the experience here so special. Instead of choosing just one onsen, visitors engage in “onsen meguri,” or onsen-hopping. The town is known for its public hot springs, which are conveniently connected by walking paths. Kinosaki has another major advantage: the public onsen are explicitly tattoo-friendly. Tattoos of any size or shape are allowed and do not need to be covered. However, different rules may apply at the baths of individual hotels and ryokans. If you have tattoos and want to try Japanese onsen for the first time, you should definitely keep Kinosaki in mind.

Beppu: Japan's City of Steam

If there’s one place where you can literally see Japan’s volcanic energy, it’s Beppu in Oita Prefecture on Kyushu. Steam rises from the landscape and between houses everywhere. The famous Beppu Hatto—the city’s eight onsen districts—include Beppu, Hamawaki, Kankaiji, Horita, Myoban, Kannawa, Kamegawa, and Shibaseki. They differ in atmosphere and water characteristics—ranging from urban bathhouses to springs nestled in the heart of nature. Kannawa is particularly fascinating, with its wisps of steam rising between the houses. Beppu also boasts an unusually wide variety of thermal water types; the Oita Tourism Organization notes that seven of the ten types of springs classified as therapeutic in Japan can be found there. Takegawara Onsen offers a lovely historical experience, but Beppu is above all a place to explore: different springs, traditional baths, steam, and sand. Anyone who truly wants to understand onsen can easily spend several days here.

Ibusuki: Sink into the hot volcanic sand

One of Japan’s most unusual bathing experiences awaits in Ibusuki, in Kagoshima Prefecture. Instead of stepping into a pool, you first put on a cotton yukata, lie down in the dark sand, and have staff bury you up to your neck. This experience, known as “sunamushi,” is naturally heated by underground hot springs. The sand reaches about 50 to 55 degrees, and after just a few minutes, you start to sweat profusely. About ten to 15 minutes is usually more than enough. 

The tradition of sand bathing in Ibusuki is said to date back more than 300 years. And the experience itself is unforgettable: You lie in a yukata under a thick, warm layer of sand, listen to the sound of the ocean, and—if the location of the sand bath allows—gaze out toward the coast. Afterward, you rinse off the sand and step into a classic hot spring bath once more.  By the way: People often refer to it as “black sand.” A more accurate description is dark, volcanic sand that is heated by the hot springs. If you’re still not satisfied after that, you’ll find other spectacular baths in the region. The Tamatebako Onsen, for example, offers open-air baths with views of the ocean and the striking Kaimondake volcano.

Ginzan Onsen: eA Journey to Another Time

Few onsen resorts are as photogenic as Ginzan Onsen in Yamagata Prefecture. The town grew up around a former silver mine—hence its name: “Ginzan” means “silver mountain” or “silver mine.” Today, traditional multi-story wooden ryokan line both sides of the river. When the lights come on in the evening, guests in yukata stroll along the water’s edge, and snow covers the roofs in winter, Ginzan looks like the setting of a historical film. The architecture today is particularly reminiscent of the Taisho period of the early 20th century. 

People don’t come here just for a single bath. Ginzan is, rather, the total experience of a ryokan, an onsen, the scenery, and the atmosphere—making it the perfect place if you want to completely escape modern Japan for a night or two. By the way: Animals also enjoy going to the onsen—monkeys, for example, or even capybaras.

Mixed Onsen

European travelers are often in for a surprise here. That’s because in the vast majority of traditional onsen, women and men are separated. You can tell the entrances apart by the characters 女 for women and 男 for men, among other things. Mixed-gender onsen are called konyoku and are relatively rare today. Therefore, if you really want to bathe together, you shouldn’t assume that this is possible at a normal public onsen.

A much simpler option is a kashikiri-buro, or a privately reservable bath. Many ryokans rent out such baths exclusively to a couple, a family, or a small group for a specific period of time. Even more comfortable are ryokan rooms with their own onsen or rotenburo. There, you can bathe together and have the pool all to yourselves.  Some traditional konyoku still exist, especially in rural areas. However, the rules vary considerably: in some, people bathe naked, while in others, special bathing garments—known as yuami-gi—are worn. Therefore, be sure to check in advance. 

Your First Time at an Onsen: Don't Panic!

For many Europeans, the most exciting part of a visit to an onsen begins right in the changing room. That’s because swimsuits and bikinis are left behind there. In most traditional onsens, people bathe completely naked. After five minutes, however, you usually realize that nobody cares. Before actually getting into the bath, there’s the most important rule of all: wash thoroughly. In the bathing area, there are low stools in front of small washing stations equipped with a shower, soap, and shampoo. You sit down, wash your hair and body, and rinse everything off carefully. Only once you’re clean do you step into the communal pool.

The small towel that many bathers bring with them should never go into the water. You should place it next to the pool or—for the most authentic look—fold it and place it on your head. Tie back long hair so it doesn’t touch the water. Then step in slowly. Japanese hot springs can be surprisingly hot. Swimming, jumping, and excessive splashing are off-limits. Conversations should be kept quiet. The onsen is a place to relax, not a swimming pool. And your smartphone? That stays outside, too. In a room full of naked people, the ban on photography goes without saying. 

Can You Go to an Onsen with Tattoos? 

Historically, tattoos have had a complex social significance in Japan and were long associated with organized crime. For this reason, some public baths and onsen still refuse entry to guests with tattoos. At the same time, the situation is changing, and more and more establishments are opening their doors to visitors with tattoos. 

There is therefore no general rule in Japan. Some onsen allow tattoos without restriction, others accept small tattoos if they are covered with a special bandage, and still others refuse them entirely. The most important rule is therefore: check the onsen’s website beforehand or ask directly. If you want to bathe with as little hassle as possible, you have several options. In Tokyo, for example, Mannenyu is explicitly tattoo-friendly. Kinosaki is particularly convenient, as all public onsen there accept tattoos of any size. And with a private kashikiri bath, the issue can also be avoided at many ryokan, though you should still check the specific house rules there as well. 

And then just stay seated

Perhaps that is precisely the most beautiful lesson to be learned from a visit to an onsen. Traveling in Japan can be intense: Tokyo, Kyoto, temples, restaurants, the Shinkansen, department stores, museums—something new awaits you every day. At an onsen, on the other hand, nothing happens—at first. You sit in the hot water. You gaze out at the forest, a snow-capped mountain, a Japanese garden, or simply at the steam rising from the water’s surface. Eventually, it gets too hot, so you sit on the edge for a few minutes before getting back in. Whether in the heart of Tokyo, amid the steam clouds of Beppu, in the hot sand of Ibusuki, or at the snow-covered Ginzan Onsen: Japan’s most beautiful onsens are therefore not simply sights to check off a list. They are places where, for a while, you don’t just sightsee in Japan—you experience it.

And you probably won't truly understand the Japanese passion for hot baths until you've sat in the Rotenburo yourself on a cold evening, felt the cool air on your face, and thought to yourself: Actually, I really don't want to get out of here right now.